Guard Dog of Phu Quôc
A dog with a ridge of fur along its back and webbed paws is the phenomenon of Phu
Quôc, a small island in the southwest of Vietnam. Endowed with unusual abilities,
this quadruped has, however, almost disappeared.
“Get over here now, we are going hunting!” On the other end of the telephone, our
guide is jubilant: he has found a ridgeback den. Dropping everything, we leave the
bustling alleyways of the market in Duong Dông, the main town of Phu Quôc, and make
our way to Cua Duong, at the centre of the island.
© VKC
The delivery occurs in a burrow
The four-lane highway passes through a forested valley and our scooters are sweeping
along the freshly laid tarmac when we see three panic-stricken ridgebacks. These
unusual canines, which have webbed paws, are excellent hunters and can also catch
fish. They can climb trees, dig and have a sense of smell that is considered exceptional.
The owner of around ten ridgebacks and manager of a hotel on the west coast of the
island, Mr Huê stated: “The residents of Phu Quôc domesticated this dog centuries
ago to protect their homes, before realising that they were able to help with hunting
as well as gathering medicinal plants.”
© VKC
Among the 400 species of dogs that exist worldwide, only three have a ridge of fur
along the back. The Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI), based in Thuin,
Belgium, recognised the Thai ridgeback in 1993 and the Rhodesian ridgeback in 1996,
but have not yet recognised the Phu Quôc variety.
The origin of this primitive breed of dog continues to divide the scientific world.
Among the opposing theories, the first proposes that they are the result of crossbreeding
with the dingo, a wild Australian dog, while the second attributes all ridgebacks
with a common ancestry. New DNA analyses carried out by the Veterinary Faculty of
the University of Utrecht in Holland should soon provide some meaningful conclusions.
Officially, a population of 10,000 ridgebacks has been recorded on the island, but
Cao Minh Kim Qui, Secretary General of the Vietnam Kennel Association (VKA), partner
of the FCI in Vietnam, is sceptical: “That is an approximate estimate because for
decades, increased crossbreeding of the Phu Quôc dog and other breeds has led to
a significant demographic decline.” Since 2004, the Agriculture and Rural Development
Department of Kiên Giang province has supported a number of projects to protect
the species. One of these was the extension of an old kennel, where we are now headed.
© VKC
The rainy season has just started at the beginning of December on the 10th parallel
North. Phu Quôc national park – a biosphere reserve where the tropical forest is
spread over 37,000 ha – is the ideal hunting ground for the ridgeback, which is
very partial to flying squirrels, wild boar and deer: and which is, above all, an
excellent snake hunter.
A muddy and rock-strewn track pushes its way forward beneath a thick canopy of intertwined
branches. It is already 30°C in the shade of the badamiers and clouds of mosquitoes
swirl close to vast clusters of lemon grass. We have barely passed the gates of
the kennel when a horde of pups comes charging towards us, yapping affectionately.
Surrounded by 8 ha of forest, there is nothing ordinary about the place. Most of
the enclosures are empty, in the middle of a vast garden around which a little over
400 Phu Quôc dogs are contentedly ambling. The purest 5% will be sold, mostly at
the market in Hô Chi Minh-Ville, to wealthy Vietnamese and foreign customers. The
island exports an average of twenty to thirty puppies each month.
© VKC
The owner of the kennel, Lê Quôc Tuân, is optimistic: “The value of the ridgeback
should increase further when it is included in the 343 breeds of dog recognised
by the FCI.” In Belgium, the file is ready and the word is that the procedure will
begin in 2014.
Albelle Di Napoli
National Geographic - juillet 2013